Monday January 19th, 2026 Queen Anne, Mindelo, Cape Verde Islands

Our first visit to the Cape Verde Islands and I didn’t really know what to expect. The country is a republic having gained independence from Portugal in 1975 and sits off the coast of west Africa in the mid-Atlantic Ocean. These islands were very important during the age of sailing ships as a critical watering and provisioning stop for vessels going to the Caribbean or the Americas; ships from Europe would following a gigantic zig-zig course first heading south west down towards Brazil (often stopping in the Cape Verde Islands) and then going north east – this route was strongly aided by the prevailing trade winds and the gulf stream current. The islands’ latest claim to fame is qualifying for the 2026 World Cup – pretty amazing for such a small nation.

Our ship is docked in the town of Mindelo on the island of St. Vincent; I’ve read that there are resorts located in the islands with hotels and beaches, Mindelo is not that kind of place. As we made our way along the dock, we could feel the effects of the strong trade winds that the sailors of the 18^th century depended so heavily upon, the sky was overcast with the threat of showers though it was not cold. Only a few taxi drivers were at the port gates, not aggressive at all – this was in indication of the focus of the town: locals going about their business, not tourism. Not a “Diamonds International” (the scourge of the Caribbean, in my opinion) in sight, which I thought was great – though we did later hear others on the ship complaining that “there was nothing there”. I think it depends on your point of view.

Progressed into town, we caught beautiful views across the bay to the other side of the island with the Queen Anne docked on the right. My senses began to take in the vide of the town; traffic jams, unleaded petrol, narrow cobbled streets, fish merchants gutting their catch on tables by the roadside, houses and shops like something from a movie set – ramshackle and dilapidated.

The harbor frontage road is dominated by the Belem Tower, a replica of the original in Lisbon, Portugal. Mindelo’s tower hosts the Maritime Museum and is a good deal at 3 Euros: each of the three floors house display cases with maritime artifacts – many from shipwrecked around the islands. Slave shackles always trigger an emotional reaction in me; I find it hard to believe that human beings could behave that way towards each other and the irony of seeing ancient crucifixes in the same display case as the slave shackles was just impossible to ignore. The views from the higher levels of the tower were excellent, both out across the bay and back into the town. Access to the roof of the tower was via a ladder, but my energy levels were low, and I decided to give it a pass.

The center of Mindelo was dominated by the market for food, clothing and all the daily needs of the islanders; it was also the main gathering point with groups of high school kids hanging out and older residents sharing stories – lots of stray cats and dogs lazily dosing in the sun. Not a single tourist shop, not even one selling World Cup shirts – pretty amazing.

I noticed several murals around the town of the late Cesária Évora, known as the "Barefoot Diva," the most famous Cape Verdean singer, renowned for popularizing morna music globally. She famously performed without shoes to represent the poor of her country.